Hand embroidered Cashmere Pashmina shawls and stoles are not just embellished accessories but also heirloom gifts. Cashmere Pashmina is a luxurious fabric, and the embroidery work makes it even more cherishable.
In this article, we will look into popular hand embroideries done on Pashmina shawls and stoles.
Note: Cashmere Pashmina and Pashmina are the same fabric. Hence, we have used these two words interchangeably.
Types of Hand Embroidery on Pashmina:
1. Sozni Embroidery - Sozni embroidery is also known as needle-point thread embroidery. Pashmina is a very delicate fabric; hence this embroidery technique works very well on Pashmina as it employs a fine needle.
Types of Sozni Embroidery Shawls and Stoles
Depending on the complexity and the density of work, sozni embroidery shawls can have different names. Some of the most popular styles of Sozni embroideries done on Pashmina shawls are:
Jamavar Embroidery Shawls
A Jamavar shawl (also known as Jama) is embroidered usually with silk thread. It has dense, rich work such that the base fabric is not at all visible. It takes almost two years to complete one Jamavar shawl. These masterpiece shawls can be used for weddings or as a gift for the bride. There are very few artisans who can create this masterpiece.
Bootidar Embroidery Shawls
Bootidar shawl has small embroidered motifs (floral or leaf-based) known as “butah" which are spread all over the base fabric. It takes almost 2-3 weeks to complete a shawl with bootidar work.
Hashidar Embroidery Shawls
Hashidar shawl features embroidered borders that are almost 1/2 to 1 inches thick. It takes nearly one month to embroider these shawls.
Dordar Embroidery Shawls
Dordar Embroidery Shawls have motifs embroidered on the borders in lace-like patterns. This pattern is also known as Meemdor embroidery. The embroidered border is three to four inches wide. Depending on the embroidered border's thickness, it is called either Dordar or Meemdor.
Palldar Embroidery Shawls
Palldar shawl has a wider embroidered border (between 7 to 10 inches wide). It takes approximately three months to finish palldar embroidery. Palldar embroidery is often done in Kani Pashmina shawls.
Jaalidar Embroidery Shawls
Jaalidar (also known as Jaal) is intricate Sozni needlework that looks like floral meshwork covering a full shawl. Embroidery work for Jaalidar shawls takes up to one to two months to finish.
2. Aari Embroidery Shawls
Aari hand embroidery is also known as Crewel Embroidery. This embroidery is the specialty of Kashmiri artisans. They use long hooked needles to create concentric loops in chain stitch. This embroidery was also done in elaborate, floral patterns for royal garments.
3. Tilla Embroidery Shawls
Tilla Embroidered Pashima usually has broad embroidery work done along the borders using metallic threads in silver or gold (e.g. Japanese Tilla Thread). These shawls are worn during special occasions such as weddings, parties.
4. Kantha Embroidery Shawls
It is not very common to see Kantha Embroidery in Pashmina, but with cultures crossing boundaries, we also see Kantha embroidery done on Pashmina. Kantha Embroidery is very popular in West Bengal and is usually done by women.